Crossing the Fukuoka・Yufuin Border! Enjoying Art and History via Aru Ressha

In this article we will be introducing one of the premier means of getting to Yufuin from Fukuoka: the JY Kyushu-run D&S train (short for design & story) train Aru Ressha.

Our trip will begin at Hakata Station. From there we will visit the Fukuoka Castle Ruins and Fukuoka City Art Museum located in Maizuru and Ohori Parks before riding the city’s Open Top Bus and enjoying some Mizutaki before checking into a 5-star hotel. 

On the second day we will head to hot-springs of Yufuin via the Aru Ressha train, where we will visit a variety of spiritually charged power spots and enjoy some of the art the city has to offer, in addition to making our own custom chopsticks. Altogether this itinerary will take 3 days and two nights. 

So, without further ado, let’s begin!
 

Start from Hakata Station

 

The Fukuoka Castle Ruins

The first official feudal lord of the Kuroda regime, Nagamasa Kuroda, built this castle together with his father Josui Kuroda during a 6 year period from 1601 to 1608. The castle commanded a view of the neighboring coastline and harbor, and it was said to have resembled a crane taking flight, which is where its alternate name Maizuru Castle comes from. The stone walls and structure of the area are more or less unchanged from how they were from back then, and the entire remaining structure is a nationally designated historic landmark. The area of the castle itself comprises Maizuru Park, and it is a popular place for the locals to go and relax.

The Fukuoka Castle Ruins
[Address] Jonai, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka
[Telephone] 092-711-4784
[Hours] Always open
[Holidays] Open year round

Fukuoka City Art Museum

Photo: Yamanaka Shintaro (Qsyum!) 撮影:山中慎太郎(Qsyum!)

This museum is located in the middle of Ohori Park and it features over 16,000 pieces of art, ranging from the ancient to the modern. On the first floor are the antique art displays, which include old tea ware and Buddhist pieces, while on the second floor are the modern and international art displays which focus on art produced in the 20th century and onward. There are also special themed exhibitions that are held in a separate section of the museum which feature a truly wide variety of pieces, ranging from Roman art to giant robot exhibits. 

The Fukuoka City Art Museum
[Address] 1-6 Ohori Park, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka
[Telephone] 092-714-6051
[Hours] 9:30~17:30 (last entrance at 17:00), From July to October Friday・Saturday are until 20:00 (last entry at 19:30)
[Holidays] Mondays (If a national holiday falls on a Monday the museum will be open, and the museum will be closed on the next regular working day), also closed from 12/28 ~ 1/4 next year.
[Fee] Adults 200 yen, high school/college students 150 yen, free for children middle school and under. Note: separate charges are incurred for access to the limited time exhibits. 
For more information please consult The Fukuoka City Museum Website

 

Ohori Terrace

 

This establishment was conceived of as a place where guests could experience Japanese culture in the middle of the park, particularly with a nod towards the tea culture from the city of Yame, one of the most famed tea producers in the country. They take pride in featuring locally grown and produced goods from Yame and Kyushu, and exhibit a further sense of refinement in their selection of sakes and artistic sake cups in the adjoining gallery (some are also available for purchase). 

Ohori Terrace
[Address] 1-9 Ohori Park, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka 
[Hours] <&LOCALS> 9:00~18:30, <TENSHUDO OHORI PARK> 11:00~19:00
[Holidays] Mondays (If Monday is a national holiday, the store will be open but close the next regular working day)
For more information please check their homepage

 

Hakata Machiya Folk Museum

 

Located right before the Kushida Shrine’s main Torii Gate, this building complex serves to introduce guests to the Hakata area’s traditional culture and lifestyle. It consists of three buildings, including a townhouse that was the residence and workshop of a Hakata textile manufacturer in the mid-Meiji period. There are plenty of historical and cultural displays on offer, and by visiting you can really get a feel for the Hakatan way of life. 

Hakata Machiya Folk Museum
[Address] 6-10 Reisen-machi, Hakata Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka
[Telephone] 092-281-7761
[Hours] 10:00~18:00 (Entry until 17:30), During July and August opens at 9:00, and gift store at 10:00.  
[Holidays] The fourth Monday of each month (In event it falls on a holiday, closure is the following regular working day), 12/29 ~ 31
[Fee] 200 yen, free for middle school and lower
For more information please check their homepage
 

 

Fukuoka Open Top Bus [Downtown Hakata Course]

 

As the name suggests, this is an open top tour bus that takes passengers through key areas of the city. They offer 3 distinct courses. The standard course is the [Seaside Momochi Course] which takes passengers by the coastline and close to Fukuoka Tower in the Momochi area. The [Downtown Hakata Course] prioritizes historical sites in the Hakata region, and may be of more interest to those seeking to learn more about the history of the city. Finally, the [Fukuoka Sparkling Night Course (Fukuoka Tower Course)] takes a longer route around the city at night and visits both the Hakata and Fukuoka Tower area at night to showcase some brilliant views. 

Fukuoka Open Top Bus [Downtown Hakata Course]
[Address] 1-8-1 Tenjin, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka
[Telephone] The Kyushu High Speed Bus Reservation Center/0120-489-939 (8:00~19:00) *Web reservations (Payment MUST be made prior to boarding)
[Hours] 
<The amount of time required per route>
-    [Seaside Momochi Course]: 60 minutes
-    [Downtown Hakata Course]: 60 minutes
-    [Fukuoka Sparkling Night Course (Fukuoka Tower Course)]: 80 minutes
*Note: Available courses will differ depending on the time of day and period
**Note: Please confirm the departure time on the Fukuoka Open Top Bus or Kyushu High Speed Bus Reservation Center website
[Holidays] Generally open all year round, except for days of inclement weather, please confirm via the aforementioned websites.
[Fee] 1 course: 2,000 yen, for children age 4 ~ elementary school 1,000 yen
*Due to safety concerns, children under the age of 4 are not allowed to ride the bus (as of February, 2024)
For more information please check their homepage
 

 

Hakata Mizutaki Specialist Daidai

 

A restaurant that specializes in Mizutaki, a hotpot that consists primarily of chicken and vegetables. In Fukuoka it is seen as a refined but humble dish that emphasizes of the chicken on its own prior to the addition of other ingredients. Daidai is a restaurant adjoining the famous yakitori restaurant Choji, and its seasoned professionals actually have chicken-preparing licenses. The chicken is carved and dressed to perfection, and only the most perfect parts make it to your table. True to their credentials as chicken specialists, the menu is incredibly simple, featuring only the mizutaki, finishing noodles and rice, and karaage fried chicken.  

Hakata Mizutaki Specialist Daidai
[Address] 1-8-14 Otemon, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka
[Telephone] 092-726-0012
[Hours] 12:00 ~ 22:00 (LO21:30)
[Holidays] During Obon (8/13~8/16) and during the New Year Holidays
*Note: Reservations recommended.

 

Grand Hyatt Fukuoka

 

A luxury hotel that can be used for a wide variety of purposes. Usable for both leisure and business, the hotel is located in the heart of the city. The hotel has a residential feel, and the rooms are both functional, cozy, and luxurious. The hotel also has a fitness center and many several restaurants inside allowing visitors to enjoy a period of relaxation a cut above the norm. 

Grand Hyatt Fukuoka 
[Address] 1-2-82 Sumiyoshi, Hakata Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka
[Telephone] 092-282-1234
For more information please check their homepage.
 

 

Hakata Sennenmon (Hakata 1,000 Year Gate)

 

Effectively the welcome gate to the Hakata Old Town area of the city, guiding visitors to where much of its traditional culture can be found. Despite its name it was actually built in 2014, but built with 4 legs and made with a roots in Fukuoka’s Middle Ages. Using wood that was taken from camphor trees near Dazaifu, it additionally makes use of many motifs from Hakata textile making. By entering the gate, the world of Hakata’s temples and shrines awaits. 

Hakata Sennenmon
[Address] 1-29-9 Hakata Ekimae, Hakata Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka
[Telephone] 092-419-1012
[Hours] All day
[Holidays] Open year round
[Fee] None

Tochoji Temple

 

Buddhist missionary Kukai visited China during the Tang Dynasty, and in 806 he is said to have been responsible for the construction of Tochoji temple. The temple features the graves of several members of the Kuroda clan, starting from 2nd head Tadayuki Kuroda. Inside the temple there is a 1,000 armed Kan’on statue that is a designated important cultural property, and outside the main hall a 26 meter tall five-storied pagoda. Inside the temple Japan’s largest seated wooden Buddha is a must see.

Tochoji Temple
[Address] 2-4 Gokusho-machi, Hakata, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka
[Telephone] 092-291-4459
[Hours] 9:00~16:45 year-round (doors close at 17:00)
[Holidays] None
For more information please check the temple homepage.
 

 

Aru Ressha

 

A sightseeing train run by JR Kyushu that links Hakata and Yufuin stations in a three-hour journey. Running mainly on weekends, the eye-catchingly golden train makes one trip from Hakata to Yufuin and back on the days it runs. Passengers on the Aru Ressha are treated to a full-on course of upscale Kyushu-forward cuisine, with the meals prepared with ingredients from Kyushu served in lavish plates, bowls, and other crockery. The leisurely three-hour pace ensures that riders can both savor their meals and the tremendous views of the countryside around them. 

Aru Ressha
[Address] 1-1 Hakata Station Central Street, Hakata Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka – 8-2 Kawakita, Yufuin-cho, Yufuin City, Oita 
[Telephone] 092-474-2217
[Hours] 9:30~17:00
[Holidays] Tuesdays and Year-end/New Year
For more information please check the homepage.
 

 

Yufuin Chikki

 

Located roughly 20 seconds away from Yufuin Station, this luggage conveyance service can be found inside the Yufuin Tourist Information Center. They are capable of checking your luggage for as long as you are in Yufuin, and for those spending the night in lodgings that are members of the Yufuin Onsen Tourism Association, they can even send your luggage directly to your hotel! 

Yufuin Chikki
[Address] 8-5 Kawakita, Yufuin-cho, Yufuin City, Oita (Inside the Yufuin Tourist Information Center)
[Telephone] 0977-28-4550
[Hours] 9:00~17:00 
[Holidays] None
[Fees] For the delivery service it is 600 yen per piece, for the luggage checking service, 500 yen per piece.
For more information please check their website

 

Yufuin Art Hall

 

An art hall adjoining the Yufuin Station waiting room. The hall features selected pieces that have been submitted by artists from all across Japan. The hall is an excellent place to unwind and relax, and between the artistic activities and the information on Yufuin’s many art museums and galleries they have on offer, coming here is definitely worthwhile. 

Yufuin Art Hall
[Address] 8-2 Kawakita, Yufuin-cho, Yufuin City, Oita
[Telephone] 0977-84-4678
[Hours] 9:00 ~ 18:00
[Holidays] None
[Fees] None
For more information please check their website

 

The Yufuin Tourist Information Center

 

A tourism information center located in a modern building conceived by world renowned architect Shigeru Ban. Wrapped entirely in panes of glass, the design affords guests with an excellent view of Mount Yufu and the wooden beams in the interior help one feel as if they are relaxing in the middle of a forest. In addition to tourism information visitors can also make reservations for the popular horse-drawn carriage, check or send their luggage to their lodgings (note: participating hotels only), or even rent bicycles. 

The Yufuin Tourist Information Center
[Address] 8-5 Kawakita, Yufuin-cho, Yufuin City, Oita
[Telephone] 0977-84-2446
[Hours] 9:00~17:30
[Holidays] None
[Fee] None (Luggage conveyance and checking service, rental bikes will incur a fee)

Unagihime Shrine

 

The shrine is commonly called Rokushogu, or palace of 6, because it is dedicated to six deities including Kunitokotachi-no-mikoto (the eternal god of the land), and has long been familiar to the local people. Inside there are many wild cryptomeria trees as well as what remains of the shrine’s holy tree following a powerful typhoon.  

Unagihime Shrine
[Address] 2220 Kawakita, Yufuin-cho, Yufuin City, Oita
[Telephone] 0977-84-3200
[Hours] Open 24 hours
[Holidays] None

The Giant Cedar Tree of Ogo Shrine

 

Located in the midst of a grove of Japanese cedar trees there stands a singular over 1,000-year-old holy tree. Bathed in the sacrosanct aura, this tree is a nationally designated natural memento, and a root diameter of 14 meters and trunk length of 35 meters. Still revered by the locals to this day, we highly recommend paying the tree a visit. 

The Giant Cedar Tree of Ogo Shrine
[Address] 746-19 Kawaminami, Yufuin-cho, Yufuin City, Oita
[Hours] Open 24 hours
[Holidays] None

The Former Hino Medical Clinic

 

Built in 1894, this historical building features a design that blends Japanese and Western techniques. In addition to Western elements such as the entrance porch, spiral staircase, and veranda, Japanese elements can also be seen, such as the carving of a dragon with clouds and trowel paintings on the door pockets. Also on display are materials that convey the medical technology of the time, such as the beds in the examination rooms and old x-ray machines.

The Former Hino Medical Clinic
[Address] 467 Kawanishi, Yufuin-cho, Yufuin City, Oita
[Telephone] 0977-84-2324
[Holidays] Mondays, Tuesdays, and from December 28 until January 4. 
[Fee] For high schoolers and above 300 yen, elementary and middle school 150 yen. 

The Lodge Visible in the Morning Mist: Yufuin Hanayoshi 

 

An onsen inn located on a small plateau that affords a view of both Mount Yufu and the townscape below, often wrapped in mist in the mornings. The hotel is divided into two areas: the "Yumenosato Area" with modern guest rooms, all of which are detached and have an open-air bath, and the "Hanayoshi Area" where guests can choose between detached rooms with an open-air bath and Japanese/Western-style rooms. Take in one of Yufuin's most spectacular views while soaking in the super alkaline hot spring water pH of 9.2 for beautiful skin, and enjoy a blissfully relaxing time. 

The Lodge Visible in the Morning Mist: Yufuin Hanayoshi 
[Address] 913-11 Kawakita, Yufuin-cho, Yufuin City, Oita
[Telephone] 0977-85-5000
For more information please check their website

 

Chopstick Maker Ichizen  Main Store

 

A store that sells handmade chopsticks made by skilled and experienced artisans. Chopsticks are order-made and can be tailored to the size of the user’s hands and the kind of food it will be used for. The store makes use of roughly 30 different species of tree, sourced primarily from Yufuin and the Oita region. They even offer chopstick making activities to interested parties, making this both a great place to make memories and acquire a unique souvenir. 

Chopstick Maker Ichizen  Main Store
[Address] 2093-2 Kawakami, Yufuin-cho, Yufuin City, Oita
[Telephone] 0977-84-4108
[Hours] 9:00~17:00 
[Holidays] For information on holidays please consult their website

 

Bussanji Temple

 

Built in the Heian Period (794-1185), this Rinzai sect Buddhist temple has long been a place of worship of Mount Yufu and the surrounding nature. Located close by to scenic Kinrinko lake, the temple is surrounded by groves of cedar trees. The main hall is thatched with copper plates, the Kan’on hall is made with cypress wood, and the monastery kitchen and Zen meditation hall with cedar wood. With prior reservation, Zen meditation and sutra copying activities are also available. 

Bussanji Temple
[Address] 1879 Kawakita, Yufuin-cho, Yufuin City, Oita
[Telephone] 0977-84-2714
[Hours] 7:00~18:00
[Holidays] None

Yufuin Sanshoro 

 

A 10-minute walk from JR Yufuin Station, this Japanese restaurant is located in a quiet area a short distance away from the town of Yufuin. The restaurant's appeal lies in its vegetable-forward cuisine, which makes full use of various cooking methods to bring out their flavor. The restaurant, which is decorated in the style of a Japanese style old private house, is a kakureya or ‘hidden restaurant’ popular with adults, and is equipped with both counter and table seating. 

Yufuin Sanshoro 
[Address] 2850-5map Kawakami, Yufuin-cho, Yufuin City, Oita
[Telephone] 0977-84-5315
[Hours] Lunch: 11:00~15:00 (14:00), Dinner: 18:00~22:00 (21:00)
[Holidays] Wednesday・Thursday 
[Prices] Lunch: 2,000 yen~ 4,000 yen, Night: 6,600 yen ~ 10,000 yen 
For more details please check their website

★This should make for the ideal lunch location. The combination box features an assembly of choice vegetables and ingredients resembling a jewelry box, sure to please both your eyes and your tastebuds. There are more filling and hearty items located on the menu as well, making this an excellent place to go for couples.

 

Atelier Toki 

 

A shop dedicated to wood crafts located in Yufuin. Surrounded by trees, a gentle light filters into the store as customers peruse articles ranging from beautiful handmade wooden cutlery to all sorts of daily implements. The philosophy of “Use is Beauty” has been firmly instilled in the craftsmen here by master Tatsuo Tokimatsu, and the items on display serve as proof. 

Atelier Toki
[Address] 2666-1 Kawakami, Yufuin-cho, Yufuin City, Oita
[Telephone] 0977-84-5171
[Hours] 10:00~17:00
[Holidays] Thursday
For more details please check their website.

 

COMICO ART MUSEUM YUFUIN

 

An art museum that is built upon the premise of uniting nature, modern art, and the architectural expressions of famed architect Kengo Kuma. Visitors can view works by leading Japanese contemporary artists, including Yayoi Kusama, Tatsuo Miyajima, Hiroshi Sugimoto, Takashi Murakami, Kohei Nawa, Yoshitomo Nara, and Mariko Mori. Discounts are available with advance online reservations. Bring earphones if you wish to listen to an audio guide.

COMICO Art Museum Yufuin 
[Address] 2995-1 Kawakami, Yufuin-cho, Yufuin City, Oita
[Hours] 9:30~17:30 (Last entry at 16:00)
[Holidays] Every other Wednesday *On occasion other unscheduled days are possible
[Fee] General admission 1,700 yen, for college and technical school students 1,200 yen, middle and high school 1,000 yen, elementary school 700 yen, and for children not yet old enough to attend school admission is free. 
For more information please check their website