Sumo: Japan’s Traditional Sport

Sumo, Japan’s national sport, is a thrilling contest between massive wrestlers in a ring called the dohyo. With origins dating back over 1,500 years, sumo began as a ritual but later evolved into a form of entertainment. By the Edo period, it had become a professional sport, with much of today’s sumo retaining the same rules and attire from that era.

Official sumo tournaments are only held in Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya, and Fukuoka. Watching the powerful wrestlers clash in a packed arena is a truly unforgettable experience. The closest seats, tamari-seki (or “sand seats”), are so near the ring that spectators are showered with sand. These high-end seats come with strict rules—no food, drink, or phone use. Behind them are masu-seki, where groups of up to four can sit on tatami mats, enjoying bento and drinks during the matches.

Fukuoka: The City of “Hashigo”

Sumo matches typically finish around 6 p.m., right in time for dinner. In Fukuoka, known for its lively food scene, the fun continues with “hashigo”—hopping from one restaurant to another to sample different dishes and drinks. It’s common to visit multiple places in one night.
Restaurants in Fukuoka are used to this hopping culture, so it’s completely normal to stop for a quick bite before moving on. For beginners, yatai (street food stalls) are a great starting point. In fact, it’s considered good manners not to linger too long at yatai. These stalls offer light fare such as ramen, oden, and yakitori, while some now serve unique dishes like French cuisine, ethnic food, cocktails, and coffee, making yatai hopping a delicious and fun adventure.

Fukuoka’s Yatai Areas

Fukuoka is home to around 100 yatai, with the majority located in three main areas: Nakasu, Tenjin, and Nagahama. Here’s what each area has to offer:

Nakasu

Nakasu is the most famous yatai district and a favorite among tourists. The view of neon lights reflecting off the Naka River as yatai line the riverbank is truly stunning. It’s a popular spot, so if your preferred stall is full, simply hop to another one while you wait.

Tenjin

The Tenjin area has the largest concentration of yatai. As a busy commercial district with office buildings and shopping centers, it's a popular stop for both tourists and locals grabbing a bite after work. Most yatai here are found along Watanabe-dori and Showa-dori.

Nagahama

Slightly farther from central Hakata and Tenjin, Nagahama is known as the birthplace of Fukuoka’s ramen stalls. Originally catering to workers at the nearby fish market, today’s yatai offer a variety of dishes beyond ramen.

Other Areas

A few yatai can also be found outside the main districts, such as near Hakata Station. These stalls, often cherished by locals, provide a warm welcome to visitors. If there’s a yatai near your hotel, be sure to check it out!

In addition to yatai, standing bars, ramen shops, gyoza joints, and yakitori restaurants are perfect for “hashigo.” And if you’re lucky, you might even spot a sumo wrestler grabbing a post-match meal!