Today we will be focusing on eateries that can be found by the Naka River, often referred to as the Riverfront area. For those seeking the flavor of Fukuoka, look no further.

Nakasu Izakaya Sumibiyakitori Heisuke

First up is a yakitori chicken specialist, Nakasu Izakaya Sumibiyakitori Heisuke. Their yakitori has a heartwarming and rich flavor on account of the charcoal used to grill it with. Skewers are skillfully prepared by the chef, with prices starting from an incredibly reasonable 150 yen. 

The skewers are grilled with bincho charcoal, a kind of charcoal made from the wood of the ubame oak. The aroma of the oak permeates the meat, further amplifying the umami. The restaurant also offers some restaurant originals such as shrimp and shiso leaf and many non-skewered dishes.

There are also many seating options, ranging from regular tables and countertop seating in an open space to completely private and semi-private horigotatsu style rooms. The restaurant is capable of accommodating both individual diners as well as large groups, so if you’re craving some charcoal-grilled goodness, this is the place to go.

Nakasu Izakaya Sumibiyakitori Heisuke
Address: Kawabata Chuo Building 1F, 11-8 Kamikawabatamachi, Hakata Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka
Tel: 092-292-4492
Business hours: 17:00-23:00 (Food L.O. 22:00, Drink L.O. 22:00)
Friday - Sunday, holidays, and the day before national holidays: 17:00 - 00:00 (Food L.O. 23:00, Drink L.O. 23:00)
*Closing time may vary depending on the situation.
Closed: Non-scheduled holidays
HP⇒https://nakasuyakitoriheisuke.owst.jp/

Haruyoshi’s Yakitori Izakaya: Torikawa Takaraya 

While regular yakitori is certainly popular in Fukuoka, the city is known for yet one more specialty: chicken skin yakitori. The technique for cooking it involves tightly wrapping layers of skin around one another on the skewer, forming balls that trap all the juicy fat and flavor deep within, while the outside becomes crispy. In Fukuoka there are many (many) stores that specialize in the dish and locals often find themselves ordering up to 10 or 20 in one sitting. 

Here, at Torikawa Takaraya, the chicken skin skewers (incidentally, the word in Japanese is torikawa) are their primary specialty. The current chef and owner is the third generation proprietor, with his special sauce inherited from his predecessor who in turn received it from his. To give you an idea, this one recipe has been handed down for 40 to 50 years. Decades of marinating, grilling, and letting the finished product rest for just the right amount of time have culminated in this comforting, umami-laden delight. 

The exterior of the skewer is crispy and fragrant, while the interior is soft, sweet, and filled with flavor. While the sauce is obviously one of the main attractions, you can experience the flavor of the chicken more directly by ordering the salt variety for comparison. Come with an appetite, because chances are if you have one, or five, you will want more. 

Haruyoshi Yakitori Izakaya Torikawa Takaraya
Address: Gentile Tenjin II-1F, 2-13-4 Haruyoshi, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka
Tel: 092-739-4141
Business hours: 17:30 - 1:00 (Food L.O.: 0:00, Drink L.O.: 0:00)
Closed: unscheduled holidays
HP⇒https://www.torikawa-takaraya.com/

Ganso Hakata Mentai Ju

This restaurant is known for its long lines, which wrap around the building during peak hours regardless of the day of the week. Equally famous is the quality of its mentaiko, which is gently placed atop a bed of fluffy steamed white rice. This is Ganso Hakata Mentai Ju.

The mentaiko here has been marinated in a mixture of peppers and kombu seaweed for a deep umami flavor. Add to that the pickled kombu that surrounds the mentaiko itself, and you have the makings of a truly exceptional meal that is uniquely and distinctly “Fukuokan”.

The painstakingly made mentaiko is delivered to your table with what can only be described as an aura of gravitas, or presence. Diners come from far and wide just to be able to taste the sumptuous yet delicate flavor of this mentaiko.  

For diners seeking other applications of their famed namesake, they recommend ordering the Rice-Noodle-Soup set which comes with 3 dishes included: the aforementioned rice bowl, dipping noodles with a mentaiko-based sauce, and a mentaiko flavored soup. Note: this is only for reservations after 17:00. 

Ganso Hakata Mentai Ju
Address: 6-15 Nishinakasu, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka
Tel: 92-725-7220
Business hours: 7:00-22:30 (LO22:00)
Closed: No holidays
HP⇒https://www.mentaiju.com/

Hamayaki Yuuchan Seafood Grill

Owing to Fukuoka’s proximity to the Genkai Sea the seafood is known to be particularly fresh, and specialist Hamayaki Yuuchan takes full advantage of this to serve up some scrumptious grilled specialties.

The fish and shellfish that this restaurant serves are purchased directly from the fish markets in the morning. With portable net stoves set up on each table, pick what you like and grill to your heart’s content!

In order to ensure that the flavor of the sea comes through in every bite, hamayaki specialists change their menu to meet the seasonal catch. The result is a consistent freshness and tenderness that could not be found if they insisted on offering the same menu year-round. The interactive and social aspect of grilling together is also a distinct attraction of the experience.

In addition to their grill menu the restaurant also offers dishes such as fresh sashimi and sake-steamed clams, as well as meat-based dishes like kuroge wagyu shabu-grill and samgyeopsal pork. 

Hamayaki Yuuchan
Address: 2F Tropical Night Bldg. 2-7-13 Nakasu, Hakata Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka
Tel: 092-262-5011
Business hours: 18:00 - 3:00 (Food L.O.: 2:00, Drink L.O.: 2:30)
Closed: Sunday
HP⇒https://www.hotpepper.jp/strJ003366579/

Charcoal, Oven, and Wine (Sumi to Kama to Budoushu)

Sumi to Kama to Budoushu is a restaurant that matches its food with wines from all around the world in a relaxed atmosphere. Lately the restaurant has received plaudits for its stylish yet casual interior. 

The store features both a charcoal grill as well as a large pizza oven. Diners can enjoy the aroma of charcoal grilled delicacies wafting from the grills as they bite into their pizza that is hot and fresh out of the oven. 

Most of the remaining menu is made to pair with wine, with specialties like garlicy ajillo featuring prominently. The first floor has counter seating while the second has several tables available, allowing groups of all sizes to come and enjoy the food, drinks, and atmosphere.

Sumi to Kama to Budoushu
Address: 2-8-31 Haruyoshi, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka City
Tel: 092-406-6722
Business hours: 18:00 - 4:00 (L.O. for food: 3:00, L.O. for drink: 3:00)
Fridays and Saturdays: 18:00 - 19:00 (Food L.O.: 19:00 - 19:00, Drinks L.O.: 19:00 - 19:30)
Sunday 18:00 - 1:00 (Food L.O.: 0:00, Drink L.O.: 0:30)
Closed: Thursday
HP⇒https://sumito-kamato-budousyu.owst.jp/

？？？？？？？？ in Haruyoshi

Can that be right? What sort of a name is that? 
As it turns out this restaurant’s name is pronounced “Chinpunkanpun”, a word which literally translates to “gibberish” in English. As for the restaurant… Attentive diners will find it hidden in a black-painted house without a sign. Finding the restaurant is not entirely straightforward, but the reward of eating there more than outweighs the effort needed to find it! 

As is tradition with Japanese kakureya, or hidden restaurants, while the exterior is plain the interior tends to be spacious and tastefully designed. Chinpunkanpun is no different. The restaurant has table, counter, and tatami seating in a bright and tastefully decorated interior. 

While the restaurant might bear the name “nonsense”, the food is anything but. They specialize in grilled skewers, with a menu that features over 60 different types! A wide variety of delicacies grace their menu, including the popular makimono (grilled meat wrapped in vegetables) making it easy to find something for everybody here. 

The “VERY BIG skewer” is a popular item, and the “festibara” (a play on words of festival and the word for grilled pork ribs, butabara) rounds out the unique menu. 

In addition to plump and juicy charcoal grilled skewers, the restaurant also offers a la carte dishes and nabe (hot pot). By a certain line of reasoning, one could argue that it is fitting for a hidden restaurant to have a name that seems to mean nothing. Finding this hidden restaurant and its delicious food is part of the fun itself! 

？？？？？？？？Haruyoshi Location
Address: 2-2-36 Haruyoshi, Chuo Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka
Tel: 092-406-8377
Business hours: 18:00 - 19:00 (Food L.O.: 2:00, Drink L.O.: 2:30)
Closed: Unscheduled holidays
HP⇒https://tinpunkanpun-haruyoshi.owst.jp/

This is the first volume introducing readers to the flavor of Hakata that can be found in the eateries of Fukuoka’s Riverfront Area. For volume 2 please click here.