Authentic and High-End! Three of Fukuoka’s Most Beloved Yatai!
Yatai are known both for being accessible to just about anybody and as places where one can enjoy authentic local food. While accessibility is one of the main draws of yatai nowadays there are increasingly unique and high-end dining experiences hidden behind their unassuming exteriors. In this article we will be introducing three yatai for those who want to try something slightly different from the norm while offering that yatai authenticity.
*Note: as this article was written in 2022, some of the prices featured may not be accurate. Please keep this in mind as you visit these yatai.
[Game Meat Yatai Jounetsu no Chidoriashi] (Tenjin)
[Unzen]
Brimming with Japanese and Western flavors, where Japan’s gourmands go for their yatai fix!
[Unzen] is a yatai that can be located on Showa-dori Avenue in front of the main branch of Fukuoka Bank. While several yatai can be found lining the street, [Unzen] stands out with its vivid blue noren curtain. Upon entering the first thing that catches one’s eye is the specialty section of their menu, On this list are classics such as homemade gyoza (500 yen) and fried eggs with mentaiko (700 yen), but also some unique western-style items like an asparagus and kobashira (clam ligament) butter fry (700 yen), and chicken neck, vegetable, and tomato stew (800 yen),
Elsewhere in the store there is a blackboard featuring menu items featuring seasonal ingredients and specials of the day. The day we visited there were items like grilled Spanish pork (1,000 yen) and grilled bamboo shoots (650) yen. This combination of rare and seasonal ingredients began making us quite hungry…
Laughing, head chef Kouji Omoto says “I have a bit of an obsession with finding tasty ingredients”. According to Omoto-san, he worked in a western style restaurants during his teens and twenties, specializing primarily in steak and French-style cuisine. When he turned 24 years old he joined his father, who was the first generation owner and chef of [Unzen]. Once his father retired he inherited the yatai where he continues to work at until this very day.
“At first, I wanted my father to recognize the flavors I had developed, my flavor. Thanks to all the customers that come to my restaurant I’ve managed to even further refine my abilities as a chef too.” By adding his own flavor to the firm culinary foundations laid down by his father, [Unzen] and its unique flavor came into being.
One of the restaurant’s classics is the fried eggs with mentaiko. Many years ago customers would frequently request mentaiko wrapped in a fried egg, which lead to its creation and addition to the main menu. Green onion and kikurage mushroom are also added with the mentaiko. The addition of the slightly crunchy onion and texture of the kikurage make it hard to stop eating this dish once you’ve started.
Before we know it the fragrant scent of the grill begins to fill our noses… That must be the grilled Spanish pork!
After developing a liking for the meat after being recommended it by his supplier, Omoto-san began to use Spanish red pork and Iberico ham. Since the corona virus Iberico ham has become harder to come by, but he still regularly offers red pork on his menu.
Listening to the sound of red pork sizzling on the grill, I glimpse at the owner's hand as he expertly cooks the meat. This kind of first hand viewing of the chef’s skill is what yatai are all about, and sublime moments like these serve to stimulate the appetite even more.
Red pork is characterized by the smooth texture of the meat and almost sweet flavor of the fat. The flavor was so good that I scarfed it all down before the chef could even tell me to eat it while it’s still warm.
To finish we could hardly forget to order the asparagus and kobashira butter fry (700 yen). The rich and sumptuous flavor of the butter sauce make this dish to die for.
When we inform Omoto-san that we’ll be checking [Ebichan] next, he gives us his seal of approval: “Many of my customers are familiar with [Ebichan] as well. When my yatai is full, or when customers have finished dining here I usually recommend that yatai. He makes some really good cocktails that are perfect for rounding off a meal.” Leaving yourself in the hands of the yatai community and hopping from yatai to yatai to drink is one of the unique joys of Fukuoka’s yatai culture.
Unzen
Separate page here
Address: 2-13-1 Tenjin, Chuo-ward, Fukuoka (In front of the Fukuoka Bank main branch, Showa-dori Avenue side)
Tel: 090-8625-9512
Hours: 18;30 PM ~ 1:00 AM
Closures: Sunday
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/yatai.unzen/
[Yatai Bar Ebichan]
Enjoy a night of intoxicating cocktails at the ultimate bar that doesn't feel like a yatai at all!
Located roughly 5 minutes away from [Unzen] by foot, [Yatai Bar Ebichan] can be found in front of the Bank of Japan branch in Tenjin. As “yatai bar” may suggest, the menu is not limited to beer and shochu but features a wide variety of cocktails and whiskeys. After inheriting the yatai from his father, Akio Ebina, current owner Goh Ebina and his wife Akiko continue to welcome guests to their establishment.
What initially surprises us upon entering is the sheer number of bottles inside the stall. Looking at all the bottles lined up in designated areas throughout the yatai, it’s easy to forget that you’re in an outdoor stall at all. With the calming amber color interplaying with the light in the yatai, the atmosphere is warm and inviting, and the retro posters on the wall and the glasses are lined up clean and neatly. The meticulously crafted interior is a sight to behold.
Even as a “yatai bar” ordering at this yatai is the same as any other bar. Let Ebina-san know about your preferred cocktail, or rather what kind of liqueur and fruits you have a hankering for. “Short or long?” “Light or on the sweet side?” Tell the master what you’re craving and then watch him work his magic behind the counter.
A standard cocktail costs anywhere from 880 yen to 1,100 yen per glass. We decided to go with something Ebina-san himself thinks we might like, and he serves us a ‘Salty Dog’. As we take a sip, the refreshing flavor of grapefruit permeates our taste buds.
Accompanying our beverage is a plate of peanuts and chips made in Fukuoka. These are staples at [Ebichan]’s.
Sitting to our left was a group of 4 women in their 20s, who were visiting from Tokyo as part of a graduation celebration, with [Ebi-chan] being their second stop on a yatai hop. Each time one of their cocktails was prepared they’d utter a collective “Waaa~!” in unison, contributing to the bright atmosphere inside the yatai.
For our second glass we decided to order an alcohol-free mocktail (770 yen). Ebina-san explained to everybody how the word ‘mock’ refers to a kind of cocktail which doesn’t feature alcohol, eliciting an entertaining response from some of the patrons who didn’t know the origin of the word.
The cranberry juice mocktail that we received used the juice as a base, and had a sweet and sour tang to it.
At [Ebichan] mocktails have long been a part of the menu, but as the number of non-drinkers has increased in recent years he’s also increased the number of items in his non-alcoholic line-up. Since these do not have any alcohol in them it allows those who cannot drink an opportunity to enjoy the appeal of cocktails from a true master of his craft.
Before leaving, we asked for one last photo, to which the couple consented to having their photo taken.
Once you get to know the lovely human beings behind these smiles and the delicious flavors of the drinks here, we can assure you that you’ll find yourself wanting to come back time and time again. Sipping on a cocktail at a bar located in a yatai in the middle of the city… If this isn’t a unique adult luxury, we don’t know what is!
Yatai Bar Ebichan
Separate page here
Address: 4-2-1 Tenjin, Chuo-ward, Fukuoka (In front of the Bank of Japan Fukuoka building, Showa-dori Avenue side)
Tel: 090-3735-4939
Hours: 19:00 PM ~ 2:00 AM
Closures: Not set, stormy days (normally open on Sunday and holidays)
[Game Meat Yatai Jounetsu no Chidoriashi]
The new face of Fukuokan and Kyushu Cuisine?!Learn about game meat at a yatai!
Easily accessed by either bus or train and filled with opportunities to do shopping at many of the outlets around it, Watanabe-dori Avenue is filled with both tourists and youthful energy. Right in the middle of three yatai you will find our next destination, [Game Meat Yatai Jounetsu no Chidoriashi], which has been run and managed by owner Higashi Koichiro since 2017.
Higashi-san used to be a salaryman at a company, but quit his job to pursue a dream of working in the food and beverage industry. Wanting to open “a store with a cutting edge concept”, he decided to specialize in `gibier`, the French word for ‘game meat’.
Of course, the restaurant also offers food outside of game meat for those who dislike it or are uncomfortable eating it. This means we can try both classic yatai fare as well as game meat all at once! This gets our appetites going, but since we’ve come out here we decide that starting with the game meat is probably the way to go here.
We start with the Buzen wild boar and deer wiener sausages, with four pieces going for 400 yen. The meat of both the wild boar and deer are sourced from the Buzen area in east Fukuoka, which is quite close to Oita prefecture. The sausages are grilled to a crisp and have a meaty aroma. Take one bite and juice bursts from the sausage, the savory flavor of the meat filling our mouths. While it comes with ketchup and mayonnaise, we find that eating on its own allows one to best enjoy the flavor of the meat itself!
With food such as this red wine is your best bet. After ordering a glass (450 yen) he fills our glass to the brim.
For those who enjoy their drinking this is a very pleasing serving size, and we find ourselves wanting to dig into another one of Higashi-san’s offerings.
We next order the smoked deer and cheese melt (1,500 yen) which uses deer sourced from the Kumagun・Mizukami area of Kumamoto prefecture. In this dish the rich and sumptuous flavors of the deer meat meld with those of the molten cheese, providing the perfect flavor pairing to our glass of wine. Each piece is sliced into just the right size, making it easy to eat and perfect as a snack you can slowly munch on as you drink.
Game meat tends to carry an association of fine dining with it, but eaten at a yatai it can be enjoyed in a casual setting without any stiff formality. The two items that we ordered are always available irrespective of business or supplier conditions. For those who have never tried game meat in their life, maybe this is the perfect opportunity!
Game Meat Yatai Jounetsu no Chidoriashi
Separate page here
Address: 4-9 Watanabe-dori Avenue, Chuo-ward, Fukuoka
Tel: 090-5690-6855
Hours: 18:30 PM ~ 1:00 AM
Closures: Not set
*Note: as this article was written in 2022, some of the prices featured may not be accurate. Please keep this in mind as you visit these yatai.