Yatai Hunting: Cheap Drinks and Eats at 3 Fukuoka’s Finest Yatai!
In this article we will be describing a journey we undertook to find cheap yet satisfying food and drink at Fukuoka’s yatai. Our goal is simple: to see how much we can eat and drink on a budget. Today we will be introducing the three stalls we visited.
*Note: as this article was written in 2022, some of the prices featured may not be accurate. Please keep this in mind as you visit these yatai.
Yatai Kenzo (Nakasu Nakajimamachi)
French Yatai “Remy-sanchi” and their juicy Parisian pork trotters!
First we have the French yatai “Remy-sanchi” that can be located right on Watanabe-dori in front of the former site of the Tenjin Loft building. This yatai is known to command long lines even on weekdays, so come slightly before the yatai opens to ensure you get a seat. Why, today I managed to be first in line! Talk about lucky.
As I wait for the yatai to open we are handed the menu. Scrutinizing it, I look for the items that will get me the most bang for my yen. I produce my internal mental calculator and compare prices, computing the total cost as I visualize the meal that I will receive in my mental “Remy-sanchi”…
Alright. I’m ready to order.
I decide to begin with the “French Style Melt-In-Your-Mouth Pork Trotters” (500 yen). Hm… the menu says ‘melt-in-your-mouth’ but the outside is crisped and well-done. I take a bite. Biting down the meat is soft and melts in your mouth as advertised. Even the bone is softened in the cooking process, and chewing on it brings out an unexpectedly delicious umami flavor. Happiness can take many forms, and it would seem that at “Remy-sanchi” it’s a 500-yen pork trotter.
According to yatai proprietor Remy, “I first simmer the trotter over a long period in a rich vegetable broth before frying the exterior to get it crisped up.” The fact that such an intensive dish can be ordered for just 500 yen is something.
Of course we couldn’t leave without trying Remy’s “Escargots” (800 yen)! A firm proponent of aromatics in cooking, Remy liberally employs raw garlic when flavoring the dish. To retain the intensity of the fresh ingredients, he only chops the parsley for the dish once he receives the order, which according to him makes “a world of difference”. As these aromatics come together a delicious and appetite-stimulating smell begins to permeate the air…
A friend who decided to tag along on my journey has decided to order the “Kyushu Chicken Gizzard Ajillo” (700 yen). He kindly offers me a bite of his dish.
Oh man… This is too good.
This is the first time I’ve ever had chicken gizzard this soft and tender. Enjoying the flavor and aroma of the chicken, I wash it down with a glug of white wine. Sublime.
“Remy-san! One more glass of wine please!”
“Remy-san! Check please!”
At “Remy-sanchi” rather than preface their request with “Sumimasen”, or “Excuse me”, they simply call him by name. As one would expect of a place where the name literally means “at Remy-san’s”, calling him by his first name isn’t an exception, but an expectation.
As a young Frenchman Remy came across the board game of Go, which lead to him developing an interest in going to Japan one day. He realized there that “while I may not become somebody great enough to go abroad, by becoming a cook I can work anywhere”. Since he always had interest in cooking, this realization lead to him furthering his skills in the kitchen,
“I can make money doing what I love! Awesome!”
At “Remy-sanchi” there is a time limit of 45 minutes. For us, it felt like it passed by in an instant.
<The bill at “Remy-sanchi”>
French Style Melt-In-Your-Mouth Pork Trotters 500 yen
Glass of White wine 450 yen
Must Try! Escargots 800 yen
Kyushu Chicken Gizzard Ajillo (friend’s treat)
Total: 1,750 yen
*Note: as this article was written in 2022, some of the prices featured may not be accurate. Please keep this in mind as you visit these yatai.
The total came out to 1,750 after a tremendously fun night of dining. If you really want to keep the bill down, opt for the trotters and wine alone, which will come out to just 950 yen.
Chez Remy
For the yatai’s page
Address: 4-9 Watanabe-dori, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka 810-0004
Access: 1-minute walk from the Nishitetsu Tenjin Omuta Line Station (Tenjin)
TEL: 092-986-2117
Hours: Tuesday ~ Saturday (18:00~24:00)
Holidays: Every Monday and Sunday
Instagram:yataichezremy
[Telas & Mico]’s Finest! Mentaiko Butter Bruschetta
Before we had time to think about our next destination, we found ourselves pulled to the yatai neighboring “Remy-sanchi”, “Telas & Mico”. Located in Haruyoshi, this yatai offers a diverse array of international dishes.
Looking at the menu, I see plenty of cheap but delectable sounding dishes, making this yatai a promising candidate for those on a budget. I can tell that I’ve definitely come to the right place!
For the drink, I opt for the “Seasonal Cordial Wine (white)” (650 yen). The drink consists of wine cut with a seasonal fruit syrup. There is also a non-alcoholic version made with sparkling water.
Today’s seasonal beverage is the “Oita-sourced Japanese Pear Cordial”. The sweet aroma of the pear and the wine blend harmoniously, leading to a light and enjoyable finish. The syrup changes seasonally, and I am eager to see what other fruits might star in future editions of the drink.
Telas & Mico” abides by the philosophy of “different strokes for different folks”. Some customers come solely for dessert, others for a meal, and others simply for a cup of coffee. There are even customers who simply come for a glass of craft beer before retiring for the night. In any case, these varied ways of enjoying the yatai seem to be reflected in the menu with its similarly diverse and unique offerings.
The first thing I ordered is the most popular item on their menu, the “Homemade Mentaiko Butter Bruschetta” (350 yen). For those who aren’t aware, bruschetta is an appetizer of Italian origin in which garlic is brushed along thinly sliced bread before toppings are added.
The bread is far fluffier and lighter than it looks, and is thoroughly permeated with the mentaiko butter.
As you take a bite of the bread the butter just oozes out, filling your mouth with the piquant aroma of Fukuoka’s specialty. I was expecting a punchy taste, but contrary to expectation it was quite refreshing. The reason for this freshness is the lemon that is combined with the mentaiko. For food of this quality 350 yen is a steal!
The next item I order is the “Grilled Pickles and Olives” (580 yen), my curiosity having been piqued. I couldn’t help but wonder “what on earth do grilled pickles taste like?”
The gherkin pickles come out nice and warm and have a pleasant sweetness to them, the acidity having been balanced out in the cooking. A distinctly vegetal umami emanates from the plate which is also filled with olives, peppers, mushrooms, and eggplant. The flavor of the dish is even further enhanced when you eat several different vegetables at once, as their flavors meld and interplay with one another.
Kubota-san is the chef and owner at [Telas & Mico]. Just as he was thinking of opening his second restaurant, Fukuoka opened applications for new yatai to open. Seizing the opportunity, he decided to change from a brick-and-mortar location to a yatai.
The main location and this yatai have different menus and offer totally different dining experiences. I even met some customers who had come to the yatai directly from the restaurant. That sounds like a plan to me!
<Order breakdown>
Seasonal Cordial Wine (white) 650 yen
Homemade Mentaiko Butter Bruschetta 350 yen
Grilled Pickles and Olives 580 yen
Total: 1,580 yen
*Note: as this article was written in 2022, some of the prices featured may not be accurate. Please keep this in mind as you visit these yatai.
If you want to keep your bill down below 1,000 yen, definitely consider ordering the bruschetta and for a drink the beer, highball, or wine for 550 yen,
Telas&mico
For their yatai page
Address: 4-9 Watanabe-dori, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka 810-0004
Access: 1-minute walk from the Nishitetsu Tenjin Omuta Line Station (Tenjin)
Days & Hours: Tuesday ~ Saturday 19:00 ~ 24:00
Holidays: Every week on Monday and Sunday
Instagram:telasmico
Finishing up with “Yatai Kenzo”’s Yaki-Ramen
After wandering about for 20 minutes I find myself inevitably drawn to Nakasu and its bevy of yatai options. Resisting the temptations of other stalls I arrive at my destination, located next to Higashi Nakajima Bridge on Showa-dori: “Yatai Kenzo”. Sporting a classic noren curtain, the warm lighting emanating from the yatai drew me in.
Upon looking at the menu, I find that there are affordable classics galore, running the gamut from grilled skewered goodies to a variety of smaller courses. I have a good feeling about this!
I start by ordering a lemon chuhai (500 yen). A round of “kanpai”s rings out as I clink my glass together with the other patrons’.
Beside me in the yatai were four tourists from Yokohama. As a Fukuoka native I chatted about the must-see places for visitors to the prefecture, one of the ideal topics to discuss inside a yatai if I do say so myself.
A regular customer recommended the Yakiramen (750 yen), which is a dish of stir-fried ramen with other ingredients, akin to yakisoba. Sounds good to me!
The Yakiramen emerges, enveloped in a cloud of steam. The Yokohaman tourists assure me that I have something delectable on my hands, further whetting my appetite.
One bite and I’m an immediate convert to the school of whatever Yakiramen this is.
The sauce is sweet, and combines tremendously well with the thin ramen noodles. The noodles are pleasantly chewy and have a good bite to them, and sprinkled on top are pieces of crunchy ramen pieces that provide textural balance. Combine this with the umami-laden aroma and you have a certified yatai masterpiece. I can see why the dish has such a dedicated following.
Owner and chef Seto-san inherited “Yatai Kenzo” roughly 7 years prior to the writing of this article. While the yatai has a legion of devoted regulars, the congenial atmosphere within ensures that first-timers are always welcome. That must be a natural consequence of Seto-san’s unaffected and charming personality.
As I begin scanning the menu for a follow-up to the Yakiramen, I am told in no uncertain terms that that “Itoshima Atsuageyaki” (500 yen) is a must-order. Tofu that is thick-cut retains its buoyant moisture internally as it is cooked on a net grill, giving it a pleasantly crispy exterior. The perfect companion to a night in search of affordable and alcohol-friendly fare.
In the interest of my project to order on a budget I did not order any oden, but the 150-yen dashi-stewed morsels were quite tempting. Another perfect option on a budget… Next time!
<The bill at “Yatai Kenzo”>
Lemon chuhai 500 yen
Yakiramen 750 yen
Itoshima Atsuageyaki 500 yen
Total: 1,750 yen
*Note: as this article was written in 2022, some of the prices featured may not be accurate. Please keep this in mind as you visit these yatai.
*Note: as this article was written in 2022, some of the prices featured may not be accurate. Please keep this in mind as you visit these yatai.
Yatai Kenzo
For their yatai page
Address: 5-6 Nakasu, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka 810-0801
Access: 3-minute walk away from the Nakasu-Kawabata subway station
Hours: 19:00 ~ 2:00 AM
Holidays: Sundays (and on days with poor weather)
All in all, I spent roughly 5,080 yen in my quest for affordability in my yatai-hop. To be honest, the prospect of trying to economize was a bit worrying, as I debated whether or not the amount of food and drink would be satisfying. On the contrary, it was plenty of fun and I had a great time. I can’t wait to go out and see what else the city’s yatai have to offer!
Hopping several stalls in one day may be a new way to enjoy yatai.Maybe my dream of eating at all of the city’s yatai is not so far-off after all…
The journey of one-hundred yatai begins with three, apparently!