Known as the birthplace of the Nagahama style tonkotsu ramen, for many in Fukuoka “Nagahama” is synonymous with the yatai food culture. However, by November of 2021 the number of yatai stalls in the area had dwindled to just two, primarily on account of the fact that many of the previous generation had retired without successors, This all changed however in June of 2023. As part of a campaign to revitalize the region, seven new yatai set up shop in the area, and now the area is thriving and bustling with guests eager to try the food.

We head over to the revived Nagahama Yatai Street with one burning question: “Where can we find the tastiest ramen”? Let’s see what the yatai owners had to say! 

Table of Contents:

・① Nagahama Yatai [Dogenya]

・② Yatai [Tamachan]

・③ The Nagahama Peoples’ Ballpark [Nagahama Shimin Kyujo]

・④ [Nagahama Shouei]

Yatai [Mentai Chudoku]’s Ramen Recommendation!
The collagenous and delectable original broth of [Nagahama Yatai Dogenya]!

We first head over to the western side of the street (closest to the Sunny supermarket) and visited [Mentai Chudoku]. For those who don’t know, mentai refers to mentaiko, a kind of spicy marinated fish roe and one of Fukuoka’s most popular specialties. This yatai is the only one that specializes in mentaiko exclusively. 

As we approach the yatai we quickly find that it is full to capacity. Quite interestingly, the clientele is younger than we expected. 

As we have come in search of ramen we are told by proprietor, Yonemitsu-san, that they unfortunately do not serve ramen. We do however receive a great tip about where to go next. 

▲Left: Yonemitsu-san of [Mentai Chudoku] Right: [Mentai Chudoku] Yatai Stall

When asked about where to go Yonemitsu-san says “If you want good ramen definitely check out Dogenya. The broth they use for the ramen has a special flavor, and the first mouthful is unique and surprising. The quality feels too good to be from a yatai and you can tell that they put a lot of time and effort into preparing every bowl. Definitely make sure finish the remaining soup when you finish your noodles.” 

Mentai Chudoku
Address: 3-14 Nagahama, Chuo-ward, Fukuoka City
Hours: 18;00 PM ~ 1:00 AM AM
Closures: No set holidays
Separate page here

Two stalls away from [Mentai Chudoku] we find [Dogenya] with its yellow noren curtains. 

The owner of [Dogenya], Takemoto-san, is no stranger to the world of yatai. He originally ran his own mobile karaage fried chicken stall, but couldn’t turn down a chance to own his own yatai when he saw the city was recruiting. 

▲Left: Yatai [Dogenya] Right: Owner Takemoto-san

We decided to order the ramen that [Mentai Chudoku]’s Yonemitsu-san recommended. 

As we enjoy our bowls Takemoto-san describes what makes his ramen special. “I use the knuckle bone (femur bones) as well as the pig’s skin. What this results in is an original soup that is rich and full of collagen. My goal is to make a bowl of ramen that you want to finish without a drop remaining.” 

The broth is made with both soy sauce and pork bones which reduces the overpowering aroma of the bones, and the melt-in-your mouth chashu pork pairs with the flavor excellently. 

As Yonemitsu-san said, this is a bowl of ramen you’ll want to drink up entirely. 

[Dogenya]’s Special Tonkotsu Ramen, 750 Yen

Nagahama Yatai Dogenya
Address: 3-14 Nagahama, Chuo-ward, Fukuoka City
Hours: 18;00 PM ~ 1:00 AM
Closures: No set holiday
Separate page here

[Dogenya]’s Recommendation!
The yatai run by a popular yakiniku specialist, [Yatai no Tamachan]

Since we were visiting [Dogenya] we figured we’d ask Takemoto-san about his favorite ramen in the area. 

He said, “I have to recommend [Yatai no Tamachan] nearby. It’s actually run by a very popular yakiniku restaurant, [Tamaya]. Their ramen is quite different from the one I make at my yatai, but it’s the real deal and actually my preferred style. The soup is rich and has a deep flavor that allows you to enjoy the essence of tonkotsu ramen.” 

As Takemoto-san said, [Yatai no Tamachan] is run by one of Fukuoka’s popular yakiniku restaurants, [Tamaya]. There is actually another yatai in the same series called [Yatai no Tamachan Bekkan] (no set holidays) right next to [Yatai no Tamachan]. 

Interestingly enough, the restaurant is filled not only with locals but also with tourists from far and wide. 

▲Left: [Yatai no Tamachan] Right: Owner Tosu-san

When asked about the secret behind his ramen broth, proprietor Tosu-san said: “With this kind of deeply flavored yet light tonkotsu broth there are no superfluous additions- just pork bones. By cooking them at a high heat I minimize the smell and the result is smooth and flavorful” 

The broth is full of flavor, and the chashu pork is moist and melts in your mouth. It’s also is a labor of love, with it taking 2-3 days to fully marinate and prepare the pork. Having tried chashu at other yatai, we were deeply impressed by the flavor and texture of the one here.

Nagahama “Pure” Tonkotsu Ramen 750 Yen

Yatai no Tamachan

Address: 3-14 Nagahama, Chuo-ward, Fukuoka City
Hours: 18;30 PM ~ 24:00 AM 
Closures: No set holidays
Separate page here

So far we’ve introduced ramen with a tonkotsu, or pork bone base. However, the Nagahama area is home to a wide variety of unique and different ramen flavors as well. 

Bring an appetite! [Nagahama Shimin Kyujo]’s Nagahama Stamina Ramen

Our next stop was the eccentric “Nagahama Shimin Kyujo”, which roughly translates to “The Nagahama Baseball Stadium”. True to the name, the yatai has a stadium like atmosphere. For example, when toasting here you don’t say the customary “kanpai”, but instead say “Play ball!” and when paying they ask that you request the check with “Game set”. All throughout the menu there are baseball terms such as ‘Sta-men‘ (an abbreviation for starting member), as well as ‘short‘ and ‘second‘. 

At the time of our visit it was quite cold outside, and a thick and transparent tarp was hung around the yatai to keep it warm inside. Because of this however, we missed out on seeing a large noren curtain with a huge depiction of a baseball stadium on it. Next time we definitely want to visit the yatai when the noren is there.  

The owner of the yatai, Matsusei-san, is actually a native of the Kansai region but was such a huge fan of the Softbank Hawks baseball team that he moved to Fukuoka to support them. When asked about why he opened a yatai in the Nagahama area he said “When I visited Fukuoka to watch the Hawks play I often frequented the yatai in the Nagahama area. So, when I heard that the area was recruiting new yatai I felt this strong desire to help restore the area to its former glory and applied.”

▲Left: Matsusei-san Right: [Nagahama Shimin Kyujo]

He continued “Since I’m originally from the Kansai area Nara Tenri stamina ramen is very popular, so I added it to the ‘player line-up’”. To make stamina ramen he first cooks Chinese cabbage and pork together before creating the broth with doubanjiang, or spicy broad bean paste. The resulting dish is a hefty bowl of meat, veggies, and noodles, and is perfect for those with a big appetite. 

Nagahama Stamina Ramen 850 Yen

“I used to love the eating at the yatai in this area, and now I am on the receiving end where I want to create a yatai that everybody can enjoy.” 

Matsusei-san is constantly trying to improve by keeping his regulars and what they enjoy most about his yatai in mind. For example, on the day we visited he was testing an experimental dish of beef tongue cooked teppanyaki style. We look forward to seeing what ‘new players’ can make it onto the ‘sta-men’ line-up!

Nagahama Shimin Kyujo
Address: 3-14 Nagahama, Chuo-ward, Fukuoka City
Hours: 19:00 PM ~ 1:00 AM 
Closures: No set holidays
Separate page here

Try it once and you’ll be hooked! The new Nagahama Karamen at [Nagahama Shouei]!

The last yatai we will be introducing to you is unique in that the owner comes from abroad. Ryu-san is from the city of Suzhou in China, and his yatai [Nagahama Shouei] serves authentic Chinese food. He came to Fukuoka as a student, and during this period had a part-time job working at a yatai. According to him, China also has yatai but Fukuoka’s are unique in that one can eat at the yatai one orders from. Having fallen in love with Fukuoka’s yatai culture Ryu-san applied to the city’s yatai recruitment and passed with flying colors. With his own yatai to work with, his menu features a mix of yatai classics as well as Sichuan cuisine. 

▲Left: Ryu-san, Right: [Naghama Shouei]

Ryu-san explained his menu’s offerings: “Since opening about half a year ago, I’ve tweaked the menu here and there. These karamen (spicy noodles) were something I added towards the end of last year. Lots of customers had been asking me for tonkotsu ramen, and in order to meet that need while preserving my yatai’s identity I introduced a ramen with a tonkotsu base but made with the addition of a very spicy Chinese rayu chili oil. I make this rayu myself and can assure you that it’s quite hot!” 

The Nagahama Karamen 950 Yen

With 4 slices of chashu pork layered on top this is a rich and filling bowl of noodles, and the addition of bean sprouts only adds to the volume. The red color of the soup is a telltale sign of its spiciness. Tasting but a spoonful of the spicy broth was enough to make us choke a bit, but with the rich umami flavor of the tonkotsu coming through it was actually pretty addictive. 

Nagahama Shouei
Address: 3-14 Nagahama, Chuo-ward, Fukuoka City
Tel: 080-9063-9363
Hours: 18:00 PM ~ 1:00 AM 
Closures: No set holidays
Separate page here

In summary

Nagahama Yatai Street offers not only the standard tonkotsu ramen but also unique noodle dishes that you might not normally find elsewhere. Please come and try them for yourselves!

In the next of the “Yatai Masters Tell All” series, we will be asking about tasty specialty dishes that can be enjoyed at the city’s yatais. Please look forward to it!